A Travel Guide to Tromsø, Norway
Last week, I experienced one of my most memorable travel moments as I visited Tromso to see the Northern Lights (Aurora Borealis) for the first time. Based on the weather forecast for our trip, I wasn’t sure if we’d be lucky enough to catch a glimpse. Fortunately, the trip was a huge success and the lights were even more magical than I expected.
If you’re planning a winter trip to Tromso, this guide will take you through things to do, where to stay and top restaurants. Whether you’re chasing the lights, exploring Arctic landscapes, or enjoying Tromso’s cosy cafes, this guide has everything you need to know to make the most of your visit! Find a complete 48-hour itinerary at the end of the post.
Travelling to Tromsø
Tromso is well-connected despite its Arctic location. The easiest way to get there is by flying into Tromso Airport, which has direct flights from cities like Oslo and London. From the airport, it’s a quick 10–15 minute bus or taxi ride to the city centre.
Best Hotels and Places to Stay in Tromsø
Finding the perfect place to stay in Tromso can be tricky, especially if you're booking at short notice like we did! While there are plenty of hotels in the city centre, availability can be limited, particularly in peak seasons. For our trip, we found the best price at Moxy Tromso, a modern and stylish hotel near Tromso Airport.
Moxy Tromso is located near the airport rather than in the city centre but the hotel makes up for it with comfortable rooms and a rooftop bar with panoramic views of the Arctic landscape (the photo above is the view from the rooftop!). The bus stop is just 2-mins from the hotel and the bus journey into town is quick and convenient, making it a great option for those who don’t mind a short commute. There is also a supermarket next door if you need to top-up on food and snacks.
If you prefer to stay in the centre of town, these stylish and modern apartment hotels were on my list:
Search for more hotels in Tromso on the map below!
How to See the Northern Lights in Tromso
The best time to visit Tromso for the Northern Lights is between September and April, when the nights are longest and the skies are darkest. There are lots of Northern Lights tours available every evening, giving you plenty of options to chase the aurora with expert guides. However, if the weather and aurora forecast look promising, you might not even need a tour as there are lots of great viewing spots where you can see the Northern Lights for free, right from the city.
Which Tours to Book?
We booked two tours via GetYourGuide for our time in Tromso to maximise our chances of seeing the lights:
On the first night, we booked a boat tour (total time 2.5 hours) that started at 9pm. Whilst the weather was on our side (fully clear skies), the aurora forecast was not. So the lights we saw were faint and a little underwhelming. During the second hour of the tour, there was no activity at all. However, one great perk of this tour is their free rebooking policy — if the weather conditions aren’t ideal, you can return on another night at no extra cost.
The second tour we booked was with Arctic Breeze (also booked via GetYourGuide) - and I highly recommend it! Unlike many larger operators, this tour is still run by local guides who are genuinely so passionate about Norway and the aurora. They work closely with scouts and live camera feeds across multiple locations to maximise your chances of seeing the lights.
The weather forecast in Tromso was particularly awful on the day of our tour, with thick clouds and poor visibility of the mountains so we had very low expectations going in. But the aurora forecast was really strong so our guide drove us almost 3 hours away to Finland where the skies were clear. It turned out to be one of the best Northern Lights displays they’d had in two weeks, and it was so magical. We had 1.5 hours in Finland to watch the lights and were also given hot chocolate and cookies.
Where to See the Northern Lights in Tromsø for Free
It’s also worth noting that there are many factors that can impact your chances of seeing the aurora. Before our trip, I assumed the KP index was the most important factor but in reality, you can have a KP of 0 (in Norway) and still witness an incredible display. Other key elements such as solar wind speed, density and geomagnetic activity also play a significant role. I used the “Aurora Now” app to track the forecast.
If the forecast is looking good, you don’t necessarily need to book a tour. Instead, here are some spots you can go to in Tromso view the lights for free:
Prestvannet Lake – a viewing spot just outside the city centre, offering minimal light pollution and a beautiful reflection of the lights on the water. This spot is c.20 mins walk from Moxy hotel where we stayed.
Telegrafbukta Beach – Located at the southern tip of Tromso, this scenic beach provides stunning open-sky views over the fjord. The bus takes c.15 mins from the city centre. I’d highly recommend visiting during the day too.
Ersfjordbotn – one of the best locations for an aurora display over the fjord and mountains. There are buses that take you here but it might be best to travel by car as it’s a c.30 min drive from the city centre.
A few things you might need for your trip:
Tromsø on a Budget: How to Save Money While Exploring
Tromso is an incredible place but it can be quite expensive. A few tips to help you save money without compromising on the experience:
Book your trip well in advance - flights, hotels and tours all fill up quickly, especially during the Northern Lights season. We booked our trip at short notice so lots of hotels were really expensive. Try to book several months ahead for the best deals.
In some cases, it may be cheaper to fly via Oslo. Direct international flights (definitely more convenient) can be pricey so it’s worth considering whether flying to Oslo first and then booking a separate domestic flight to Tromso is more affordable.
Stay at an apartment hotel where you have access to a kitchen so you can save money on eating out.
Visit the spots in the city to view the Northern Lights for free! There are lots of spots such as Prestvannet Lake, Telegrafbukta Beach, or Ersfjordbotn that are all accessible by bus from central Tromso.
Where to Eat in Tromsø: The Best Restaurants & Cafés
Tromso has a great food scene, with lots of cosy cafes and international cuisine. During our trip, we visited some lovely spots:
FINT Cafe & Bar – this was probably my favourite spot, a stylish and modern café that was perfect for brunch or a coffee break. It’s really relaxed and and there are lots of books and board games too if you’d like to have a chilled evening.
La Familia – delicious homemade pasta and Italian comfort food. The carbonara here was delicious!
Casa Inferno – the most delicious wood-fired pizzas and the ambience was so cosy and romantic. Make sure you book in advance.
Kaffebønna – there are a few of these dotted around Tromso - stop by for a morning caffeine fix or a cinnamon bun.
If you would like to try the local cuisine, we heard that Skirri Restaurant and NYT offered delicious reindeer burgers.
Practical Tips for Tromsø: Packing, Transport and More
If you’re visiting Tromso for the first time, these are some of my practical tips and things you should know before you go:
Pack lots of warm layers including thermals, hand warmers, and feet warmers. These are essential for night time Northern Lights tours as you'll be standing outside for at least an hour.
In addition to thermals, waterproofs and good walking boots are essential, especially if you’re venturing outdoors for any winter activities.
Be prepared for limited public transport outside of the city. Whilst the bus network in the city ran frequently all week, we were disappointed to find they don’t run on weekends for trips outside of the city. On Saturdays, there were no buses at all for trips outside the city. Make sure to check your planned journey in advance on Svipper.
It’s really easy and affordable to buy bus tickets on the Svipper app - download this in advance. If you buy tickets on the bus, you have to pay in cash.
If you are consider renting a car to explore further afield, make sure you are fully confident and equipped to do so as the weather and driving conditions can change drastically in winter months.
Most shops (not supermarkets) in Tromso are closed on Sundays, so make sure to plan accordingly as we were hoping to wander in shops on Sunday afternoon and found they were all closed!
During the winter months, Tromso experiences long nights so there are only a few hours of daylight. For our trip in early February, the sun set at 3:05pm. Make sure you plan your outdoor activities accordingly to make the most of the available light.
Finally, one of the most popular attractions in Tromso is the Fjellheisen cable car for beautiful views of the city. In my experience, the queue was really long in the evening and even longer to come back down. If you can, you should plan to do this in the morning or early afternoon.
How to Spend 48 Hours in Tromso - a full itinerary
To summarise, here's a 48-hour itinerary to help you make the most of your Tromso adventure:
Day 1: Arrival, Explore and Northern Lights
Arrive in Tromso and check into your hotel or apartment.
Explore the city — grab brunch at FINT Cafe & Bar, explore the local shops and Tromso Harbour.
Have an early dinner at Casa Inferno for amazing pizzas.
Join a Northern Lights tour or, if the forecast is looking good, visit Prestvannet Lake or Telegrafbukta Beach to see the aurora for free.
Day 2: Arctic Adventures
Start your day with coffee from Kaffebonna, then head out for a day trip to Sommarøy (1 hour) or Ersfjordbotn (30 mins). Alternatively, book an arctic activity such as dog sledding, whale watching, or snowmobiling.
Take the Fjellheisen cable car for beautiful views of the city.
Enjoy dinner at a local spot, then take a Northern Lights boat tour for a different viewing experience.
