A Cotswolds Weekend Retreat at The Bull, Charlbury
The Bull in Charlbury has been on my (very long and ever-growing) list of hotels to stay at so I was very excited to check in for a couple of nights in sunny April. The hotel is a beautiful “pub with rooms” but feels more like a boutique luxury retreat - with standalone bathtubs, king-sized beds, and genuinely some of the best pub food I’ve had. I stayed for two nights but it would just as well for a one-night countryside escape from London.
Charlbury is a charming Cotswolds village and I was surprised as to how easy it was to reach without a car. Unlike many other spots in the region, you can get the train from London and be in the Cotswolds in under 2 hours. With lots of scenic walks and cycle routes nearby, it’s a perfect base for a relaxing weekend away. Book your train tickets via Omio or Trainline.
How to get to Charlbury from London
I took a direct train from London Paddington and arrived in just over 1 hour. The station is a 10-minute walk to the hotel and village centre, which makes arriving and getting around super easy. Compared to other Cotswolds towns that often require a car to get the most out of the experience, Charlbury was very doable without a car! Book your train tickets via Omio or Trainline.
Things to know about your stay at The Bull
There are 10 rooms in total and each one is wonderfully unique or you can stay at the Loaf Cottage (a couple of doors down), which sleeps up to 4 people.
We stayed in Room 7, which is on the ground floor of The Barn, a building just off the garden so it did feel a bit noisy at times. It had a lush freestanding bath and a super king size bed. The only negative was that the bedroom and bathroom (including toilet) were “open plan” so there wasn’t any privacy for when you needed to use the toilet.
The food at The Bull was genuinely exceptional - but bear in mind, it’s also quite expensive. If you’re only visiting the pub for food, it’s one you’ll want to save for a special occasion. We had dinner in the restaurant one evening and every dish was seasonal, beautifully presented, and full of flavour. I’d recommend pre-booking a table in advance as the restaurant tables fill up very quickly! Breakfast was also delicious - I opted for their French toast with apricot and maple syrup.
Things to do in and near Charlbury
Charlbury is a small village but it’s surrounded by the beautiful countryside. A few things you can do to make the most of your stay in the Cotswolds:
Grab some lunch from the Charlbury Deli and Cafe, just across the road from The Bull. It’s perfect for a casual lunch or to pick up a picnic to take on a walk. They serve coffee, sandwiches and pastries so it’s ideal for grabbing something on the go too.
Complete the Charlbury Circular Walk which starts right from the village. It’s a 5.5-mile loop that starts right in the village and should take you less than 2 hours. It takes you through open fields and classic Cotswolds scenery. The route is gentle and easy and a great way to enjoy the landscape without needing a car. Find more walk ideas here.
Get the train one stop from Charlbury to Kingham (it’s one stop and takes about 10 minutes. You can buy your tickets in advance on Trainline). From there, you can do a lovely countryside walk (around 1 hour) to Daylesford Organic Farm. The route takes you through peaceful farmland and ends at one of the Cotswolds’ most iconic farm shops and a very fancy cafe for a treat lunch. It’s perfect for a spring or summer afternoon outing.
Go for an evening walk around Charlbury village - I think photography is best when the light is soft and golden just before the sun sets, so I love getting out in the evenings. The village is full of classic Cotswolds cottages and peaceful spots.
Have dinner at The Bell, just opposite the Bull. It’s a great alternative dinner option for a more casual evening. On Fridays-Sundays, they also offer takeaway pizzas which look delicious.
If you feel like exploring a bit more, there’s a local bus that runs from Charlbury to Chipping Norton. It’s a lively market town about 25 minutes away. It's great for a half-day trip, with independent shops, cafes, and a bit more buzz. Just make sure to check the bus times in advance, as rural services can be a bit infrequent. Or you could also rent bikes as an alternative to explore more of the Cotswolds without a car.
If you are planning a solo recharge, a romantic weekend, or a catch-up getaway with a friend, The Bull in Charlbury is the perfect short weekend trip to enjoy a slow pace in the countryside. With great food, beautiful countryside, and a proper sense of escape, it ticks a lot of boxes for a weekend retreat near London.
You can follow along on my Instagram and TikTok for more travel inspiration.
Thanks for reading,
T.
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